Thursday, December 30, 2004

letter home #4: where is my magic wand?

hello all once again

I can't thank you enough for all of your emails. They are really the only release I have from this disaster right now, and it is truly nice to hear from you. So thank you, and keep them coming.
After my day yesterday, I am ready to go home. And I know I won't actually go home, but right now, that is all I want to do.

I went into school yesterday after having been around to various locations the night before and seeing bodies decaying in the dark and told the teachers my efforts could be much better used translating.

I left school and went to city hall (where I had been the night before) and saw what can only be describes as complete misery. People have lost everything. Everything. Picture a typical traveler with all of his money in traveler's cheques, his passport and some other belongings as the only comfort he has as he sees the world. Now, everything gone. The tsunami even took the clothes off many people's backs. People are without passports, proof of who they are, tickets out of here and any food, money, and in more cases than I would like to know, their loved ones.

When I arrived at city hall I went and checked in with the Canadian embassy and realized that there was a lack of volunteers. So, I volunteered there, as there were translators already. I sat with the only other Canadian volunteer (quite disappointed in this...) and we directed lost Canadians with no ID to the embassy and talked to those who needed to be talked to. A little translating for those who were simply grasping at anyone who would listen.

A dismal situation.

After a while I got word that the ambassador was to arrive in Phuket at the city hall that afternoon. He was going to go around to hospitals and talk to Canadians and see what he could do. One problem, no one knew how many Canadians were at the hospitals (five major ones in Phuket) and what shape they were in, Id they had, etc etc. So I said I would go to the hospitals and update our lists and identify Canadians who were lost, bodies if needed, and talk to those who were injured and do what I could to save time for the ambassador.

As I got halfway to the hospital I got a phone call telling me to return as they had a car and driver waiting for me. (Believe me, right now, to have a car and driver is an amazing thing, so much traffic, riding my motorbike is mayhem.) When I returned there was a gentleman there whom I had met in passing who said I could take one of his drivers (he would be taking his other one with in the benz...). It didn't hit me until later that this man was big news. He is a thai man married to a canadian woman who has great interest in Canadians. Wherever we went he was waied in the most respectful of ways and flashed his 'Palace Standing' which means he is somehow associated with the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Needless to say, a good guy to have on the Canadian side right now. He spent the day making sure I had the proper information and was utterly thankful for my help. I was joined by a member of the Canadian embassy in Islamabad who was here on holiday and knew more about making ID than me. I was basically going along to make people feel that there was someone here, who is going to be here for a long time, who speaks (enough) Thai and can get things done.

We went to five different hospitals, and by the third I was ready to be on the next plane home. I knew what I was doing was beneficial, but it is still so damn hard. We went to Vachira Hospital, the local Govt. Hospital where I had seen the decaying bodies the night before. This hospital makes me so sad. There are simply too many people. Too many bodies. Too many people broken in too many places. We found one of the few remaining Canadians and talked to him for a while and found out what we needed to do to get him new ID. He was swimming when the wave hit. The thing is, because the wave was so immense, the water receded so far right before, and in order for swimmers to find water deep enough to swim he had to go out quite far. Right above the coral. And so when the wave hit he was thrown against the coral and shredded. To be honest, all of the people I met yesterday are incredibly lucky to be alive.

The most injured couple I helped was a couple at the hospital where I took my students to go caroling a week ago today, three days before the wave hit. This hospital is state of the art, but once again, there are simply too many people. People wandering around looking for spouses, looking for friends, not knowing where to go. There are not enough rooms and so the chairs in the waiting rooms have been designated to patients. Each chair has a name taped above it as well as the patient's country name. This is their corner of the earth where they are allowed to heal.

Misery.

The couple I met at this hospital was a french canadian couple who had been in Ko Phi Phi. They were up early on boxing day to go on a diving tour. they waited for their boat on a pier, being rather far out in the water. being so far out they didn't realize that the water had receded. When the girl saw the wall of water heading towards her she grabbed hold of a railing on the pier. The railing broke, but she was found moments later filled with water, scraped, broken leg, etc, with a piece of the railing still in hand. Her boyfriend had a broken back, and they can't go home until he is better. They are on the floor of the hospital waiting. They have no news of the friends they met in Phi Phi, and know one of the three Canadians who has died.

I feel like I am going to wake up soon and realize this was a bad dream.

The worst hit hospital was in Patong, where the biggest disaster was. We went over to this hospital and though there were no remaining Canadians, there was a slideshow of unidentified bodies. I'd never had any concept of what a drowning victim looks like before, but it is not something I ever want to have to see again. The bodies I had seen were covered enough to make them look decent. These bodies were in such rough shape. And they have been sitting in the hot sun since Sunday, it is now Thursday. It is no ones fault, there are simply too many to deal with.

After we finished at the hospital we went for a walk in patong to see if there was anything that could be done there. I hadn't even noticed the worst of it when I was over there on Tuesday. Please check out my blog for all the photos
www.isobella.blogspot.com (different from the Thai Visions one...)

So much disaster.

I can't even imagine where this is going to begin to be picked up. In my opinion, I feel that international efforts are lacking. While money is being sent in, and the UK have send a team of what, 20 people...that is not what is needed. Money is needed, indeed. But not in one lump sum. They will need money for many years to come. What we need are people. People who can operate heavy machinery. People to counsel those who can't find their husbands and wives. People to look after the children separated from their parents. I helped a french woman yesterday scour the websites for photos of her husband who she has now decided died. I am not qualified to handle that. (Though who really is?)

There are free flights leaving the island every day going to Bangkok and from there free flights getting people to their countries. This effort, as well as the food and fresh water has been quite impressive. But we need people. The mess is so amazing. If I could have one wish I would wish for a magic wand to bring us back to Sunday night and to warn everyone to go to higher ground.

At any rate I have to get going. I am going back to the embassy with Rin today to go and help out with thais as well. Not to mention, I am moving tomorrow and haven't started packing. At some point there will be a calm after the storm. At some point.

Also, those in Canada check out the Toronto Star today (Thursday) as I had a reporter follow me around all day. I would be interested to see what she took from it.

Thanks again, and be in touch.

gros bisous

heather

the woods are lovely dark and deep
but i have promises to keep
and miles to go before i sleep
and miles to go before i sleep...

local efforts Posted by Hello
shophouse Posted by Hello
banana disco Posted by Hello
a bar managed by a friend of mine who left phuket about three weeks ago. i can't imagine what could have happened if she didn't Posted by Hello
patong beach Posted by Hello
half a speedboat Posted by Hello
longtail boat anchored quite far out in the sea at the time of the impact Posted by Hello
 Posted by Hello
five star resort where a friend of mine stayed two months ago with her mother. today, there is nothing left Posted by Hello
once upon a time this was a brick wall Posted by Hello
more creative parking...in the lobby of the comfort inn Posted by Hello
creative parking Posted by Hello
 Posted by Hello
a once organized hospital now turned into a miserable haven for those looking for lost ones. my day yesterday was trying to find unaccounted for canadians on the island... Posted by Hello
 Posted by Hello
(steps from the 'merry christmas') Posted by Hello
indeed Posted by Hello
 Posted by Hello
a once glassed in restaurant on the beach road Posted by Hello
 Posted by Hello
the main road that runs parallel to the sea...completely ruined. efforts to clean this up will take years and billions of baht. patong will never be the same Posted by Hello
beach beds sent about half a km down the street Posted by Hello
soi bangla, previously the hub of the thai sex industry and beach nightlife. Posted by Hello
patong beach Posted by Hello

Wednesday, December 29, 2004

letter home #3: jobs to be done

well hello to all. trying to keep in touch.

if you notice someone missing from the list please forward this to them, as i can only send 50 at once. damn hotmail.

i spent last night going around phuket town to different hospitals and various rescue centers and realized my time can be much better spent than sitting at school. so today i came into school and told them i was going to translate. at city hall there are many italians, french people and foreigners having a hard time communicating, and with my thai, i am able to get by.

phuket is beginning to smell like death. i dont know how much more i can take of this. rin and i went to a hospital last night and wandered around looking for canadians and seeing what we could do and we ran into the icu which had been turned into a morgue. as of yesterday the worst thing i had seen so far was the dead dog. not anymore. body after body after body of decaying sadness. i will never forget this experience...i wish it was over already.

i will see what i can do...cook food, look after children, see where i can begin to lend a hand. it is a sad sad time here. people wander the streets with sad sad heavy hearts. i will be happy when this is over.

hopefully rescue funds from other countries will kick in soon. this wouldnt be such a big deal if this was a developed nation. but there simply aren't the resources to fix things here. houses are so poorly built and people here live in a style so much related to the elements, their homes were gone in seconds. now, we will pick up the pieces and move on.

today i will see what i can do. much love to all...i shall be in touch soon
bisous

love heather

the woods are lovely dark and deep
but i have promises to keep
and miles to go before i sleep
and miles to go before i sleep...

Tuesday, December 28, 2004

letter home #2: business as usual

hello to all

thank you all so much for your emails. it is a really nice to feel close to home.

things are...well...going from shitty to worse here. the sirens never stop and the death tolls keep rising. a few of my friends went to patong last night, the major tourism hub of the island, and it no longer exists. amazing. phuket is no more. this place will never be the same. no insurance, no money, i cant even imagine.
to say the least, being here is one of the last places i would want to be right now.
not to mention that thailand is void os censorship on the enws, and they continually show dead bodies floating here and there etc etc.

the king's grandson died here this weekend, and if you know anythying about thailand, this is a huge huge deal. the king was here last night to pick up the body.

i am at school today. business as usual. the government schools are closed, but the privates are open. we are all waiting with baited breath to see who isn't going to be here. i wish the day was over already. heaps of my students live on the beaches...who knows who will not be here. today is going to be a shocking day i think.

dad, i sent you an email, please let me know as soon as possible.

much love to all, and i will be in touch again tomorrow.

heather

the woods are lovely dark and deep
but i have promises to keep
and miles to go before i sleep
and miles to go before i sleep...

Monday, December 27, 2004

letter home

hello to all
thank you all for your emails and phone calls, i have really appreciated it. the past two days have been really surreal in this part of the world. before i go any further...i am ok. on safe ground, not near th beach, on the good side of the island, and i am alright.

i dont know what is going on in the news in the west, so i will sum things up the best i can.
on sunday morning, off the short of sumatra a 9.0 magnitude earhquake basically parted the seas and created a 100km gap in the ocean. this gap was filled with water, and then, as physics works...the water then had to come out again, and did so in the form of energy spreading all over south east asia. how does this affect me? well, get a map. i am in phuket, the biggest island on the west coast of thailand...basically directly above sumatra. this earthquake sent a tital wave 10m high to the west coast of phuket (where all of the beaches, tourists here for christmas, and fisherman are...) and basically raped the land of objects, cars, and people. the major town here, patong has been totally destroyed. it is so bizarre...so surreal.

the earthquake could be felt here. i was in bed on saturday night and i felt something shake. after christmas festivities i thought i was just imagining things...and then i woke my boyfriend up to see if it was him. he doesn't remember this...but i do. i didn't think anything of it. my bed was shaking...not a lot, but enough to wake me up. i went back to sleep and it wasn't until we turned on the enws later that day that we realized what had happened. upon later inspection rin noticed that the walls of my apt had hairline fractures all over. thank god i am moving out on friday.

school is closed today, and it's really hard. the hospitals are full of foreigners and thais and on the news there are simply shots of bodies and bodies and bodies covered in blankets, dead. people are still being taken to hospitals, helicopters and sirens going nonstop for the past 36 hours. i still can't get in touch with some poeple, but i am hopin that they are alright. no one in thailand has landlines, and the mobile lines are all wonky...i can't even begin to think where we are going to start to bgin to pick up the pieces. tourism is shot, the beaches are no more, and most importantly...people have lost everything. everything. no insurance, no money. happy new year!

at any rate, things are bizarre here. i have been rying to get in touch with people and to keep out of harm's way. i think rin and i will go to one of the smaller beaches today to see what is there and what can be done.
anyway, thanks again for contacting me, and know i am alright, just shaken. not something you really want to have to go through

merry christmas and happy new year to all, and please check out my blog in the next few days, and i will be posting updates and possibly, photos.

much love to all
gros bisous

love heather

if you want to give me a call please do so...
07-8949368

hib

the woods are lovely dark and deep
but i have promises to keep
and miles to go before i sleep
and miles to go before i sleep...

Thursday, December 23, 2004

christmas sucks.

note to self: never spend another christmas working in thailand. i have spent the past week trying to make christmas special for those around me...especially my students. working my ass off, getting no sleep, spending lots of money, going shopping everywhere possible to find some f*ing candy canes or santa hats, sweating at the end of december, planning caroling, and no one even really gives a shit. no snow, no fun, lots of stress, no family, no hot chocolate, no christmas specials on television, no pretending santa is still real.

for fuck's sake, i just watched 'rudolph the red-nosed reindeer' in thai.

all i have received for christmas this year is one large headache and a lovely little heartburn.

amen to christmas in thailand.

(boo hiss.)

Wednesday, December 22, 2004

burst into flames?

sometimes it completely amazes me that this country has not yet burst into flames.

harsh?

indeed.

i just my only free, non scheduled, designated 'santa hat shopping' hour of the day at tesco...the closest thing to a superstore here. i am taking my students caroling at a hospital and then to a resort tomorrow evening and i wanted to buy them santa hats as a thank you. i spent about thirty minutes working through the store finding christmas things here and there in no particular order...garland here, fake trees here, candy there, random santa shirts with mis-spelled words all over...but the damn hats? well, precisely where they should be. next to the tvs that are on sale, under a stack of 'happy new year' garland. duh.

the price tags had been conveniently ripped off all of the remaining santa hats.

bangarang.

i asked the tesco-shirt-clad woman how much the hats were. "sip song baht." 12 baht. about 27 cents. no problem. can be done (this all has to work into my monthly school budget...)

i took eight hats to one of two registers and fought through lines to get a place. then i had the joy of waiting in line for twenty, yes, twenty minutes, shifting my weight from foot to foot, huffing as rude people waiting in line do. i got to the register and the smile-free cashier, and price? 48 baht each. bringing me way over my budget. i explained to the woman that i was told a different price, and could she check. she said no, and i left. simple transaction.

fun fun fun in the land of smiles.

Saturday, December 18, 2004

oye.

it has just occurred to me at this very moment that the pure human condition is trying to be understood.

living in a country where i am misunderstood on a daily basis, this should have been obvious.

but when it comes to people who do in fact speak my own language and who know where i come from and where my heart is, and there is still miscommunication i learn that humans are tragically, in the platonic sense, alone. we spend our lives trying to make others understand what goes on in the space between our ears.

do you even understand what i am saying?

Thursday, December 16, 2004

parting thoughts

i had a long conversation with r last night about my pending 'change-of-sleeping-location.' in sixteen days i will be moving in with smiles and his friend +1. i am really looking forward to this, but i know the definite problems that are involved. i know it is risky. i know he and i are going to have good times and bad. i know it is a hasty decision. but really...it is something i want to do. in the west i would have waited a year or more before doing this. but here, i have pushed my limits since the day i stepped of the plane in sweltering bangkok...and i continue to do so each and every day.

the shitty part...i have been avoiding discussing this with r for about three weeks now. i know where she is coming from, and i know it is an insane move. but the thing is...i am seeing if it works. if it doesn't work...i can always move out. or he can. who knows. i will never know until i try. all i know is that right now in my present state of mind (which doesn't seem to be too fantastic as of late) he is a part of my life that makes me feel quite amazing. and i miss him throughout the day...we hardly get to see one another. this is a harsh remedy, but it is the one i have chosen. we shall see where this brings us.

i know he is not going to be able to fill some external void. i am not hoping for him to do so. i see him for what he is. i see our relationship for what it is. i am falling in love with him.

anyway. i feel like this is somehow a plea to justify my feelings, and am going to move on now.

to r, i hope you have an amazing and safe trip home...i hope being in canada brings you joy and christmas spirit, and in the heat of winter, with the palm trees swaying in the sweltering sun, i will be missing you.

i love you honey, and i know you are only looking out for me. all day playing over and over in my head: "but you are so smart!" this thought makes me smile. thank you for caring so much.

Wednesday, December 15, 2004

home sweet home? Posted by Hello